Installation Overveiw

The following is a brief overview of how to install artificial turf.

Since every installation is unique, our support team will be glad to answer any specific questions you may have.

PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING AND INSTALLING!

 

Tools You Might Need:

Shovels

Rakes

Contractors grading rake

Weed weasel

Sod roller

Tamper

Broom

Tape measure

Marking pen (silver sharpie)

Hammer

Trowel (fine tooth)

PL Brand Glue (yellow/black tube)

Sod staples

Utility Razor and hook blades

Scissors

Duck bill scissors

1     Mark out the area that you will be installing the turf. Plan any boarders or fencing that you will use. Plan your installation so you have as few seams as possible. Generally turf comes in 15’ wide rolls and lengths up to 200 feet. It is also very important to remember that turf has a distinct grain pattern. For a professional installation the turf can only be installed side to side. Once you let us know your dimensions we will advise on just the right amount.

2 Remove all grass, weeds and rocks. Use shovels, rakes or rent a gas        powered sod cutter.

Tip: You may consider hiring a local landscaper to prep the ground.

Remove enough soil so the turf will lie even with the existing              landscape, accounting for the rock aggregate leveling base that will                 be used in the next step. The amount of soil that needs to be                         removed depends on the condition of the ground. In very dry or                     dessert like areas where the ground is already very firm, it is not                   necessary to remove a lot of soil.

Tip: Use a swatch of turf (your sample) to get an idea of how the turf will lay next to curbs or in walkways.

Use a water filled sod roller, tamper or vibrating plate compactor to               compact the ground. These items are usually available to rent at                     local supply centers.

If necessary you can spray a weed killer on the soil.
Remember to cap sprinklers and turn off valves.

3 Once debris is removed start compacting ground. Once you are                   satisfied with the level of the ground you can apply the rock                         aggregate or stone dust leveling base. It is best to ask your local                   nursery or supply house what is best to use in your part of the                     country. Stores like Lowes or Home depot sell it in 40 pound                         bags in the outdoor section (referred as “step 2 stone dust”). For                   larger areas it can be bought in bulk. The purpose for this base                     is to create a compact, level surface for the turf to lie. 

About 3- 4 pounds per square foot is usually sufficient.

Distribute the base evenly using a contractor’s leveling rake. You                 may have to use more in areas where the land is depressed to                       bring up the level. Always follow the existing slope of the land to                   ensure proper water drainage. It is important that there is a                         slight slope to allow water to flow in the proper direction. Using                   a sod roller (or a gas powered compactor for larger areas)                           compact the ground as you go.  Use a hand tamper for edges                       and high spots. It is important to work the base until you are                       satisfied that the ground is firm, there are no “high and low”                         points and your slope is sufficient.

 

4 Place a good quality weed barrier on the ground. Make sure to                   overlap the seams and secure with sod staples.

Tip: A good quality fabric weed barrier can also be used as seaming backing. (as discussed in step 6)

5  Now you ready to roll out your turf.

Position the turf and roll out as close as possible to its final                           position.  You can make rough cuts to eliminate excess and to                       make it easier to work with. Use a utility knife with a carpet                           blade for rough cuts and a good scissor for delicate cuts.

Tip: A duck bill scissor works well for this.

 

It is a good idea to stretch out the turf and let it sit in the sun                       for an hour or two before making your final cuts or seaming.

 

6 Seaming

Tip: If done correctly seaming in not that difficult, you can also consider using a local carpet installer to assist with this step.

Pay attention to the grain pattern of the turf. The pieces to be                         seemed should follow the same direction. Make sure the edges                       match up without gaps. You may have to trim some fibers on                         either side to ensure a good seam. It is important to spend time                     on this step for a perfect seam.

If you already used a good fabric weed barrier, that can act as                       your seaming tape and apply glue directly on it. If not purchase                     a 12” wide seaming tape and center it where the two pieces of                       turf meet.

Fold back one side of the turf (about 18”s) and draw a line                             where the seam will be.

Tip: a silver sharpie pen works well for this.

Then fold back the other piece of turf and using good outdoor                       construction glue with a notched trowel make a generous bead                       down your line. Bring one side of the turf back down (the piece                     where the grain flows away from the seam), then the other side.                     Mesh the fibers together with your fingers or use a carpet seam                     roller.

Tip: practice joining the turf before applying glue. This process will work better with 2 people or even 3.
Let the glue dry for 24hrs and be very careful not to walk on.

6 Once your seams are finished you can make your final cuts.

Tip: making scallop or curved cuts along with decorative stone may make the job look more like a natural landscape.

Once all of your cuts are made and the turf is in place proceed to                   secure it with sod staples, 1 about every 2ft is usually sufficient.                   When hammering in the staples, move away the turf fibers with                     your fingers and nail into the rubber backing. Manipulate the                         fibers so the staples become invisible.

 7  Infill, The purpose of infill is to weigh down the turf and help                   to keep the turf fibers stabilized and keep the turf from                                 getting matted. For residential applications a sand infill is                             recommended.

Note: sand and turf should be 100% dry as it is being                                 applied. About 2lbs of sand per square foot should be                                   sufficient. Use bagged contractor grade sand.

The first thing to do is to sweep or power broom the turf                             against the grain pattern. This will open up the turf fibers for                         the infill.
Then distribute the sand evenly using a seed spreader. This                           can be found in supply stores relatively inexpensive. After                             about a third of the sand is dispensed sweep the turf again                           until the sand is not visible. Repeat until all of your sand is                           finished.

8 Finishing touches. Depending on the look of your                                     surroundings you may want to use some decorative stone,                             edging or boarders to tie in the existing landscape with your                         new artificial grass.

Walk the perimeter of the grounds to make sure edges are secure.

9 Enjoy your new maintenance free lawn and the money you                     just saved!